The staff at the VC suggested that we start with the Mesa Top Loop and experience the sun temple, viewing some historic pueblo pithouses and buildings, and hitting viewpoints that show several of the cliff dwellings including Cliff Palace, the largest of the cliff dwellings in the park. Then, time permitting, we could continue onto the Cliff Palace Loop and see some of the dwellings up close.
So we did. We saw the sun temple, pithouses, and cliff dwellings on the Mesa Top Loop, all of which were neat. Then we went to the Cliff Palace loop. The viewpoint of Cliff Palace from here was far better than any others we stopped at because you are close enough to really see the dwellings. We wanted to hop the gate and go on our own unsanctioned self guided tour... but we decided it probably wasn't wise. Sadly. Before leaving the park we stopped at the Museum and watched (the last half of) the video on the park which explained a bit more about how the native people lived in the cliffs. As the sun was setting we had supper in the park, then headed out!
Personnel:
The ranger at the VC was very helpful and friendly. She guided our trip, pointing out which areas closed at sunset, and where we could linger longer if we wanted to see a bit more. At the museum we had a short encounter with the ranger there, and he too was friendly.
Climate/weather:
Even though we were at this park in the afternoon, it was still cold. It was a sunny day, though, and comfortable with appropriate layers in the sun. The fact that it was a clear afternoon was amazing for viewing most of the dwellings, especially Cliff Palace.
Facilities/signage:
The restrooms were very nice at both the VC and the Museum. The VC had flush toilets, sinks, soap, hand dryers, and automatic doors! The Museum facilities were similar, except that the women's had no running water, but they did have antibacterial moist towelettes. The main sign here was above average, with a very well done stone base and support. The driving signs within the park were good except that the font was very hard to read quickly, so some of them we missed details on. Also, at each overlook there was an information sign that would show where each cliff dwelling was located which was very helpful. Overall the signage was well placed.
Hiking experience:
All our hikes were very short viewpoint hikes, but the paths were all well maintained. We really would have liked to have gone on a self guided tour, that would have been a much more interactive experience, but we did enjoy what we were able to do. We will definitely plan a return visit so that we can take the Balcony House Tour!
Driving experience:
The initial ascent onto the Mesa in the park was full of incredible views of the surrounding valleys. Once we were up in the mesa area the driving wasn't very diverse, but the viewpoints were still worth stopping at.
Camping options:
There is one campground in the park, but it closes mid-Oct through mid-May. There is also a hotel in the park which was also closed.
Hammockability:
It would have been awesome to hammock in one of the cave dwellings, but that isn't really allowed. Also the trees above aren't great for hammocking, and going off trail is not permitted, so hammocking is not really an option at this park.
Scenery:
The cave dwellings are really the biggest draw here. There are some good views of canyons and valleys, but the historical aspect added by the dwellings is the unique feature that makes this place special.
Nearby food:
During regular season (mid-May through mid-Oct) there is a grocery store at the campground as well as a restaurant at the hotel. In the off season the nearest food is quite a ways away, best to bring food with you.
It is amazing to see peoples lives nestled into a cliffside. You can see a lot from the overlooks, but if you come to this park, take a tour! There are several tour options which you can buy tickes for (up to 2 days in advance). All tickets must be purchased in person at one of the locations designated on the website (https://www.nps.gov/meve/planyourvisit/tour_tickets.htm). It is definitely worth stopping at this park, but unless you want to do ALL the tours it is probably a 1 or 2 day visit.
Next stop: Arches National Park in Utah!
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