Black Canyon of the Gunnison

So some NPs are very well known (Grand Canyon for example.) Some National Parks are not very well known, such as Black Canyon of the Gunnison, which is really too bad, because it is worth seeing. We camped on BLM land about 2 miles outside the NP, which was awesome because we woke up, and were pretty much already in the park! Bam! Seeing the canyon in the early morning light was supremely rewarding.

This canyon is different. Most of the NP canyons are enormous sprawling affairs that are both deep and wide. This one is just deep. Over 2000 feet deep! And in some places less than 300 yards wide. As you approach the canyon you can’t even tell it is there until you are right upon it, and the contrast of rolling hills to jagged canyon precipices is both jarring and captivating!

Our first real look into the canyon was from the South Rim Visitor’s Center lookout. From there we could see the sun’s rays slashing through the canyon as it crested the horizon. The walls here are jagged vertical folds of rock over 1,700 feet high with the Gunnison river tumbling along the bottom. Not only are the walls of the canyon spectacular, but the river here drops an average of 95 feet per mile, making it extremely lively and active. From the top of the canyon you can see rapid after rapid. From the VC we followed a short trail along the canyon rim, stopping at several viewpoints to take pictures and soak it in.

When we got cold enough to head back to the car we drove on to the Painted Wall area. Here the cliffs tower 2,250 feet making it the tallest cliff in Colorado. The beautiful rock formations combined with the incredible streaks of color that define this cliff are not to be missed. It is a short hike out to the viewpoint, and from there you can see not only the painted wall, but the river below as it continues on its way. Many more pictures were taken here. Again, when the cold compelled us to seek the warmth of the pickup we dragged ourselves away and headed out of the park.

Personnel:
As we arrived there was a ranger cleaning the bathrooms and taking out the trash. He greeted us in a very friendly manner and directed us to the viewpoint. Also on our way out the ranger in the VC directed us to the water fountain. High quality.

Climate/weather:
Early morning in Colorado in November is COLD… in case you were wondering… Once the sun came up enough to start providing heat it became much more comfortable in the sun, but if you are hiking in the shade you may have a bad time. Layers are recommended.

Facilities/signage:
The VC had pit toilet restrooms that were clean, well maintained, had hand sanitizer, and had a HEATER! So nice to walk into a warm bathroom on a cold day! Sadly this late in the year there is no running water, but they had a culligan style water dispenser for visitors to stay hydrated. Also, the VC had an awesome porch with a picnic table and a decent view of the canyon. Something a lot of the VCs don’t have. The entrance sign here was also a step above the average. The sign had a graphic on the left that for some reason just seemed right. The driving signs within the park were also clear and informative. The only issue we had with the signage was that some of the trails around the VC were not clearly marked.

Hiking experience:
Cold, but the views and the trails themselves were fantastic! The walkway down to the VC viewpoint is really well done, and the other trails were well maintained with amazing destinations. There are a lot of hiking trails that we didn’t visit (definitely looking forward to going down into the canyon next time!) that deserve exploration as well.

Driving experience:
Because of the terrain here and the abruptness of the canyon you really don’t get any fantastic views while driving. Mostly you see the rolling deserty scrubland with short glimpses of the top of the canyon walls, but the good views are from the viewpoint hikes.

Camping options:
There are campgrounds on both the south rim (reservations up to 3 days in advance) and the north rim (first come first served).

Hammockability:
Not great unless you want to try to go cross canyon! The vegetation where we went was not up to the hammocking experience, but there might be some better options if you delve farther into some areas of the park.

Scenery:
It is all about the canyon here. It is a hidden gem, it just appears out of nowhere and is so spectacular. The blandness of the surrounding area just highlights how amazing the canyon is. Definitely take time to see the Painted Wall!

Nearby food:
There is no food available for purchase in the park. The nearby towns are about half an hour away.

Despite never having heard of this NP we highly recommend that you visit it, and we plan to return ourselves! When we go back we will definitely take time to hike one of the trails down into the canyon and explore the lower section as well. This park was a surprise of the best kind.

Next stop: Mesa Verde and the Pueblo cliff dwellings!